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    您現在的位置: 首頁     >    時裝發布    >    Suzy Menkes專欄

    #SuzyPFW: Louis Vuitton Plays With Gender

    作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2018年10月04日
    內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

    文章導讀

    Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière makes artificial landscapes and space-age bags

    敬請期待中文版

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    With the speed the models were going, slipping on wet patches as they walked the maze of tents through the misty, rain-blurred Paris Louvre – how could anyone sort out the boys from the girls?

    Well, it was not that difficult: the females looked tough but wore frilly sleeves, colourful space-age patterns or sweet florals, such as a mix of blue and mauve roses on a simple shirt and trousers.

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    The males were in suits brightened with a surreal print T-shirt or just straightforward jackets and trousers over a roll-neck top.

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    But wait a minute – there’s something amiss here. The boys were all girls wanting to look like tough men.

    Vuitton's new spaceship handbag shape.

    Marcus Tondo/Indigital

    “They were actually all girls – it was a question of empowerment and ambiguity,” admitted Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière.

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    “My idea was to be ambiguous because everyone thinks that when a woman dresses like a man, it’s giving her power,” he continued. “I think you can be very vulnerable when you wear a suit as a woman. It was very interesting to play with that ambiguity.”

    There, in nutshell is the subject designers have been trying to crack in a month-long period of fashion shows in four cities. Call it ‘gender-bending’ or ‘gender neutral’ – or anything that sums up the fact that a new generation is growing up not caring too much about those definitions.

    Ghesquière had all sorts of interesting things to say about the Spring/Summer 2019 collection. He explained the insertion of images, produced digitally, but looking like old-fashioned postcards on the chest.

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    “They are artificial landscapes that we designed and we thought it was very interesting to use them as an imaginary landscape for a woman to have on her clothes. Some of the little dots you saw were like cities, potassium lakes that were shot by drones.”

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    Ghesquière has always seemed fascinated by futurism. It is at the heart of all his collections. But this season there were clashes of the new – a rounded coat standing stiffly around the body in contrast to little patterned dresses, girlish and soft at the waist. More gender play?

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    “It’s not armour – that coat is more like a shell,” said the designer. “It’s rubber, the new Vuitton trench coat. It’s always a challenge to build architecture around the body and to keep the movement and fluidity you need with clothes.”

    It is to Ghesquière’s credit that he puts so much deep thought into what look at first sight like simple pieces.

    Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019

    Indigital.tv

    Oh, and what about the handbags, Vuitton’s heartland? The new shape is round like a spaceship landing – perfect for both the girls and the boys.

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